This review covers the September 22nd to October 3rd Coastal Express voyage of the MS Nordkapp. We were lucky with the weather and with 11 Northern Lights viewings, often two per night in the clearer northern regions – one between 8/9pm and the 2nd time ranging from after midnight to 4am. We were also lucky to see autumn colours and a variety of wildlife – none of which can be guaranteed.Daily information briefings cover the next day’s activities and ports but also wider topics like art, music, and mythology. They are a good introduction to each port, whilst landmarks and photo ops are announced and pointed out on approach. Crossing the Arctic Circle is celebrated going north and south. Given the route is a postal service, you can send postcards with a special Arctic Circle or North Cape stamp. Other onboard activities on our trip included detours into Trollfjord, food tastings, Norwegian music, sea shanties, learning knots and there’s plenty of books, games, and jigsaws for those who want them.Excursions are expensive but enable you to visit locations inland, not feasible on your own, and with timings guaranteed to have you back on board just before the ship sails. Like the information briefings, excursions are usually organised with 1 or 2 nationalities per coach, with translation in both languages. English speakers who spoke some German did comment that descriptions in German covered more topics on some excursions.Some excursions are weather dependant so may be cancelled and others were added in during our trip so it’s worth checking, whilst there is an opportunity to visit the bridge for a small donation to the Hurtigruten Foundation.There’s no pressure to take excursions. It’s entirely possible to do your own thing in the ports and onboard – chat, gym, sauna or 2 hot tubs – a robe or towel recommended for the latter. Several attractions like the Hurtigruten museum in Stokmarknes (fascinating!) and the Lofoten Krigsminnemuseumin and the Lofoten Magic Ice Bar (both in Svolvaer) are just metres from the ship. Most places also have a range of statuary and public art. Peoples’ experiences and photos differ depending on what you choose to do. Downloading the Hurtigruten and Camarella apps is recommended. The first is only usable on board but provides a helpful programme of events, details of your personal excursions and the dinner menu for that day and the next day. The other (a partnership with Camarella) offers access to the wider Camarella community but also a group for your boat where passengers can, and do, share photos. The voyage video package is also a nice souvenir. There is a mix of nationalities. There were more people on the north-bound voyage than the southern on our trip, but everyone was friendly and willing to talk. Food is plentiful and excellent. Hurtigruten work with a number of Norwegian growers and suppliers to provide fresh and interesting artisanal products, including various alcoholic beers and spirits. Similarly, with the toiletries in the cabins. Breakfast and lunch are buffets. Dinners alternate between buffets and three course set meals – with three options, including vegetarian. Allergies etc are catered for. In the UK, there is an option to dine at Kysten, the fine dining restaurant on board, for a small supplement. This was excellent and provides a quieter experience for anyone celebrating a birthday or anniversary. There is a coffee shop offering a selection of cakes, sandwiches, ice creams and beverages, whilst the bar provides alcoholic and hot drinks in the evenings. Hats off to the chefs, and all the onboard crew who are hard-working but friendly. The team handling UK sales was equally good, being very helpful with booking enquiries. Everyone seemed pleased with their cabin, whether they opted for a more stable position on a lower deck or one higher up with a window – being on the promenade deck raised the possibility of people walking past but this really wasn’t an issue. Hurtigruten’s 1893 Ambassador programme is useful for free hot drinks, wi-fi and excursion discounts. Creating a ship account tied to a credit card meant there was no need to carry cash on board. It was possible to settle up the final bill via cash, or a debit/credit card so was very flexible. On land, Norway is virtually cashless so a debit card with a good overseas rate is recommended. Cash was useful for crew tips which are discretionary.Something to do again? Absolutely, probably in a different season to maximise the contrast. This was a brilliant introduction to Norway and the coverage of Sami culture and Norwegians’ experiences in the 2nd World War was particularly interesting.
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